It's early December, and Ukulhas feels alive. Guests walk along the beachside road in the morning. Restaurants have tables full at dinner. Excursion boats head out to the reef multiple times a day. You can see tourism working — people moving, booking, spending. But six months ago, in June,
There's a spot near the eastern beach where I used to sit as a kid, before tourism changed everything. Just sand, a few palm trees, and the kind of quiet you only get on small islands early in the morning. I'd watch the fishermen prepare their
It was around four in the afternoon when I stopped at Céleste Restaurant for coffee and looked toward the harbor. The sea was calm, the kind of stillness we see often here — flat water reflecting the late sun, boats rocking gently against their moorings. A small boat moved slowly out